Goodnight, Raleigh! - a look at the art, architecture, history, and people of the city at night

The Fabius Briggs House: A Crumbling Raleigh Relic

For more than a century rain has been mulling over a way to make a home inside the once regal house on the corner of Ashe Avenue and Hillsborough Street.  The house, often referred to as the “Green House” or “The Jackpot House”, drops slate roof tiles as if it were inviting its wet foe inside for an extended stay.  The perimeter of the house is littered with malt liquor bottles, window glass, and broken slate.

A story accompanies every house that man inhabits.  Much like children, we give these organized piles of lumber and stone an identity of their own when they become the structural shadows of their past residents.  The Jackpot House wears its history in plain view.  Its weathered green asbestos siding, peeling paint, gray wood, and cinder block appendage tell a vague story of neglect and abuse.

During the late 1800s and crossing over into the first few years of the 1900s, residential development crept onto Hillsborough Street, and the tract along Ashe Avenue between the railroad tracks and Hillsborough Street was in the process of being sectioned off for development.  It was during this time the Jackpot House was constructed.

Wake County tax records indicate a build date of 1915.  However, city directories and deed research suggest an earlier date of around 1902.  The Queen Anne-style architectural details such as the hipped roof with lower cross gables and the gabled dormers also suggest this earlier build date.  Porches are very significant in dating a residential structure, but sadly only a small portion of the original porch still exists.  It is very likely that the original building had an asymmetrical porch that ran the width of the house and along half of the left side.  The portion that exists today is a good indicator of how the original appeared, but it is still difficult to imagine what this house looked like with a lawn and a front porch.

If the house had any dignity remaining before the Jackpot was built, it was lost when the porch was removed.  As journalist Michael Dolan once said, “a house without a porch is like a man without eyebrows”. Sifting through its catalog of structural scars reveals a more accurate picture of how this structure came into its own identity, and leads to more questions that beg deeper investigation and further speculation.

It is believed that the house was built for the family of Fabius Briggs, a son of Thomas H. Briggs, the founder of Briggs Hardware.  In 1874, the Briggs Hardware building on Fayetteville Street was Raleigh’s tallest building and remained so for three decades.  The Briggs family has deep seated roots in Raleigh and the family business continues to operate today.  The Fabius Briggs family lived at 1301 Hillsborough Street until around 1927.  By 1929, the Great Depression brooded over the city, and in 1932 the Raleigh Building and Loan Association acquired the house through foreclosure.  It likely spent a time unoccupied, and was eventually rented to a Raleigh lawyer, and then to the Sigma Nu fraternity for ten years.

By 1944, the once palatial residence had been humbled and abused by its tenants.  It had lost its innocence, status, and shine. It was around this time that a Greek family by the name of Kledaras bought the Briggs house, which they would own for the next 60 years. In 1949 an architect unwittingly drafted the fate of the old house alongside plans for three storefronts: a dry-cleaners, The Brite Spot Restaurant, and a contractor and building estimator.

Present day, store fronts

One might wonder why someone would destroy any outward aesthetic appeal of a turn of the century Queen Anne house by attaching an ugly cinder block building.  Simply put, in the mid 1950s this style of architecture was out-dated and all too common.  In the eyes of a 1950s Raleigh resident, 1301 Hillsborough Street was a throwback to a time that was becoming increasingly hard to identify with.  In recent years, the Garland Jones building in downtown Raleigh gained attention for its modernist exterior and was considered ugly and outdated by many Raleigh residents.  The revolving door of architectural trends had come full circle.  The Raleigh residents who designed and built Garland Jones were also razing and turning their collective noses up at gaudy, ornate turn of the century architecture.  We are simply mirroring the actions of our ancestors with a new aesthetic ideology.

By the 1960s, the three storefronts and a rooming house occupying the Briggs House itself had been open for more than a decade.  The 1970s proved to be a rough time for the house and its appendage.  The Brite Spot restaurant became an aptly named strip club bearing the same name.  The house, virtually abandoned at this time, naturally became a place for patrons of the strip club to get “privacy”.  The house had become a den of iniquity, and would remain so for some years to come.  When the city cracked down on strip clubs in the late 1970s The Brite Spot closed.  The cinderblock building was then home to a long list of bars and other establishments, while rooms in the house were rented out — or left abandoned.

I recently had the opportunity to tour the house accompanied by Bart, a bartender for The Jackpot.  Once inside, one realizes how grand this house once was.  Now it is littered with trash, worn mid-20th century furniture, the abandoned belongings of squatters, and feces belonging to at least four different species — the smell of urine was at times overpowering.
A great deal of attention was given to aesthetic details in the construction of the interior.  From robust oak moulding along baseboards and door surrounds to ornate heat registers and stout door hardware, it politely asks, “pay attention.”  Nearly every room is fitted with a fireplace, each with a glazed tile surround.  The tile colors vary from a deep brick red to a light turquoise.
Fireplace, main floor

Fireplace, main floor

A beautiful oak staircase runs along the left wall and turns up at a right angle to the second floor.  Walking up, dark wood surrounds you. Waist-high rail and stile paneling runs the length of the wall opposite the banister, worn smooth by thousands of hands.  The steps have become concave, and the walls seem to ache with age.

The future looks bleak for the Briggs House.  Recently condemned by the city of Raleigh, its days are numbered — unless it is either brought up to code, or moved.  Preservation North Carolina (PNC) is working to save it; however it seems the only way to preserve the house is to move it.  This option would require a tremendous amount of effort and money.  The gleaming question is whether it is worth all the trouble.  History buffs and architecture geeks would certainly chime in with a resounding “yes”, but sadly the majority of people would remain apathetic to its destruction.

Whatever the future holds for this old structure, one can confidently attest to its long life and steadfast nature.  Personally, I take comfort in knowing that I’ll be here in 30 years, telling a new generation of Raleigh residents — “There once was a wonderful old house that sat right there”  — the very words that I find so fascinating today.

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There are 39 Comments to this article

Abby says:
10/30/2009

Beautiful, Ian. I’ve been waiting for this piece. I couldn’t believe you didn’t have all the answers a couple of months back. I knew you’d be getting them soon. I’m glad you’re writing now. You’re really good at it.

Deb says:
10/30/2009

Thank you! This house has always intrigued me. Wonderful job. I always wondered what the interior looked like. It is both beautiful and tragic.

I’ve wondered if the southern wing of the Carter Building (14 Glenwood) is another instance of a once-grand house wrapped in cinderblock. A hipped roof with cross gables is clearly poking out the top of the building.

Katy says:
10/30/2009

Nicely written, Ian. I love the accompanying photos. I hope that at least parts of the house can be salvaged if the whole thing cannot be moved/restored/whatevs.

Ashley McCray says:
10/30/2009

Is that a hand/fingers I see on the staircase? Kinda creepy!

Wonderful article!

peter says:
10/30/2009

I grew up here in the sixties/seventies. If for only as a sort of memorium to what was lost, this ghost should be saved.

Peter

jessica says:
10/30/2009

So interesting – been curious about this house for many years.

Ben says:
10/30/2009

Awesome post and really awesome pics. Even if the thing gets torn down (likely) this post will exist until the internet gets torn down. Thank god for that.

Nancy says:
10/30/2009

So glad you wrote about this house. Would love to see additional interior photos. Always thought it was a shame to deface the house and then let it deteriorate. As one who has restored a similar old house nearby, I would hate to see this house lost!

Gennie says:
10/30/2009

Nice work, Ian! I was afraid it wouldn’t get written! Still jealous you got to go inside.

Jasmin says:
10/30/2009

This house was supposed to be an atists co-op a few years ago…i think that it should be saved!

Lea R says:
10/30/2009

Amazing writeup and pictures. The interior looks amazing–hard to believe so much is still there after decades of mistreatment. I hope Preservation NC has some luck getting the house moved, or at least delaying its deconstruction.

Yes…what is that on the lower staircase railing? Was someone there when you took that picture?

L

Emily says:
10/30/2009

And this is why I love your blog! I’ve always wondered about the sad green house; what it used to be and how it got to be so gross on the outside. OH to be able to save it!!! I wish I had the means to do so…

Willie says:
10/31/2009

Hey, man, you got a dollar? Bring me some Orange Driver.

tyrone says:
10/31/2009

I don’t know if its the orange driver talking but the photos are really good. By the way, DO NOT EVER come into my house again! Willie and I live there and dont appreciate trespassing

AWS says:
11/01/2009

Great post! but no mention of the “ghost”? as I remember the story was that when it was a rooming house one of the transient state fair workers fell asleep with a lit cigarette and burned to death. I got a late night tour from one of the bartenders (during the Bourbon St days) and was shown what (after a few beverages and in the middle of the night) looked like the charred outline of a body – SPOOKY!

Even in the middle of the night in the dark the details of this place were amazing. I hope that it won’t be demolished.

Liz says:
11/01/2009

I drive by this house all the time and always have wondered about its history. I guess becoming a frat house was the first nail in the coffin (like Elizabeth Lawrence’s old house). It is beautiful inside and it is hard to imagine that those with the power to save it are going to tear it down.

Holden Richards says:
11/02/2009

Beautifully done Ian.

Lizz O. says:
11/02/2009

Did anyone else notice the half invisible hand on the banister railing in the last picture?? Is that real or doctored? The article was great by the way – very intriguing.

Elizabeth says:
11/02/2009

Ian, excellent article! I’m glad so many of the commenters are interested in seeing this house saved. There is a lot of quality left in it, and we are going to do our best to see it saved. If anyone has any bright ideas or wants to help out, drop me a line.
Thanks!
Elizabeth Sappenfield
Preservation NC / National Trust for Historic Preservation
esappenfield@presnc.org

Chris says:
11/02/2009

Have lived within a mile of this house for almost 20 years now and pass it almost daily. I always wondered what the story was and again- your site comes through with a great article. Keep up the good work and let us know about any plans on this fantastic piece of Raleigh history.

Robin says:
11/02/2009

What’s up with the hand on the railing?

Ian F.G. Dunn says:
11/02/2009

The hand on the railing is the result of a long exposure. The hand was removed halfway through the exposure.

kickinnc says:
11/02/2009

Ian, as you can see from the above comments, so many of us have wondered about this historic gem that appears to be slipping through our fingers. Thank you so much for the insight into its history. Googling can only get you so far answering questions about pieces like these. Maybe Raleigh needs a site to commemorate Raleigh’s architectural treasures lost to apathy or bad executive decision making. It could showcase pieces such as the Garland Bldg, as you mentioned, The Catalano House (possibly getting rebuilt?), Isaac Hunter’s Tavern (now a Hilton…), etc. Perhaps the sheer volume of incredible losses would raise awareness around us.

Once again, thanks again for the terrific research, insight, article!

M Pro says:
11/02/2009

I worked in that place for years. My boss was the owner of the Brite Spot. I have seen some crazy stuff in the front and the back of that place. It is nice to see the interest in the place. There is/was some amazing woodwork in there.

A. Nelson says:
11/02/2009

Wonderful article Ian! I too have been waiting to see this house written about on Goodnight Raleigh. What a long strange trip this house has had. I can only hope that it is not drawing to an end so soon. Thank you for shining a light on this little piece of Raleigh.

NCSU says:
11/03/2009

Great job! That staircase is quite impressive.

Jake says:
11/03/2009

Awesome read. Great investigative work on digging up the research, which really makes the photos that much better.

Also, I’m really glad I didn’t see the staircase photo (and “ghost hand”) before Halloween. Nice!

Chris says:
11/03/2009

With the house condemed, what is the fate of the Jackpot? Honestly only been in there once and had to leave because of the smoke (I’m one of those recent transplants from the northeast that can’t wait for Jan. 2, 2010). I’m not sure I’m hipster enough for the place anyway … but the question remains … does the condemnation apply the commercial structures in front of the house, too?

Tom H says:
11/04/2009

My grandmother owned the “Green House” as we called it for many years and ran it as a boarding house. There are many great stories that I remember from my childhood. I can remember being both fascinated and frightened by the sheer size of the structure as a small boy. The giant winding staircase seem to lead to the heavens. The tall ceilings appeared to be 30 feet high. I truly hope (for sentimental reasons) that the house is saved. It really is one of Raleigh’s unique structures.

Elizabeth says:
11/04/2009

Tom H – you don’t happen to have family photos of the house (or people with the house in the background), do you? We will need photos of the house – preferably before the construction of the commercial building in the 1950s – to reconstruct the porch and front rooms.
Thanks!

Raleigh Boy says:
11/04/2009

Goodnight, Raleigh! has learned that the Raleigh City Council supports the efforts of Preservation NC to save the Fabius Briggs House. At the council meeting last night the administrator of the Inspections Department suggested that the best remedy is to wait until December when they will come forward with the repair or demolition order (part of the standard process). At that time the Inspections Department will recommend a 120-day extension. It is hoped this will give PNC and its partners more time to develop a sound plan of action to save the structure from demolition.

One commenter has asked why, if the house itself is condemned, then why not the Jackpot building as well. According to the housing inspection administrator in the City of Raleigh Inspections Department, the Construction Division of Inspections would process any building case activity for 1301 Hillsborough (the Jackpot) due to it being a commercial building. The Housing Division has an unfit housing case associated with 2 Ashe Avenue (i.e. the Briggs House) that is located directly behind the Hillsborough Street building. Technically, then, the Briggs House has not actually been ‘condemned,’ but has been found at the present time to be ‘unfit for human habitation,’ apparently a ‘lesser’ offense.

Todd Morman says:
11/06/2009

I’m really glad to hear the city’s looking at saving this. Jasmin’s right above, the house was an art co-op/studio for a while recently (well, maybe 10 years ago); I remember going to openings. The other day I was riding by in the morning and watched two drunk guys fighting on the side porch. I think it ended ok, though; as I rode off one of them was pushing the other to the ground in a headlock while saying “I love you man” over and over again. Another great post, Ian, thanks!

Jennifer says:
11/06/2009

Awesome article! I did not know anything about the building prior to the aughties, other than experiences hanging out in its attic studios and a pretty wild new years party that kicked off 2007.

Modi says:
11/08/2009

Cheers for this post. I am contemplating undertaking the restoration of a 100 yr old Victorian in East Durham. Amazing how I now notice architectural gems all over the place. If this gorgeous building does get demolished, will the treasures contained within get salvaged? I might have a home to preserve them if need be. I will watch this space for updates…

Rose says:
11/14/2009

I live across the street and am ready to see this thing come down. Such a low spirit. It’s sad really.. If only it was kept in better condition.

renee foster says:
11/15/2009

Beautiful writing Ian. It is a fitting tribute to one gem of a house. I had no idea that it looked like that inside. The fireplaces are amazing!—its so sad to me that these houses often fall victim to teardowns.

I love the starry night picture of the roof too!

Renee

lizzie says:
11/29/2009

I haven’t been in Raleigh in almost 40 years, so I looked up the address and was stunned to see that the house was so close to Ashe Ave. Does anyone know what happened to the stone house on Ashe, a few houses off Hillsborough? I can’t believe that I don’t recall this house, or at least the bar attached to it. But I remember well when Ashe Ave was the closest thing Raleigh had to Haight Ashbury! Good luck to preserving the house – the inside is stunning. If the house must be demolished, I imagine a non-profit called Southland, which works with PresNC will try to salvage as much as possible. The stairs are beautiful.

Orion says:
11/29/2009

The only time I was ever in this house was in 1980 to visit David Sedaris who, at the time, was waiting tables at The Breakfast House across from the Bell Tower. I do not know how long he lived there.

Phil says:
12/14/2009

this is exciting. maybe they will find the remainder of the Briggs treasure in the backyard. in case you didnt know, Loyalist Briggs family buried gold in 1778, waiting for this revolution thing to blow over. Some was found in 1866, the rest, .well, its somewhere.. still waiting.

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