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Reminiscences of a Raleigh Boy, Part 3: Fayetteville Street

Part 3: Raleigh’s Main Street

Briggs Hardware (1874) on Fayetteville Street in 1965

Briggs Hardware 2008, now home of the City History Museum. Next door is the former Boylan Pearce department store with its recently restored Beaux Arts facade.

200 block of Fayetteville St showing the Tucker Building and the Post Office on the left

200 block in 2008

View toward the Capitol from the 100 block, 1966. With the exception of the two state government buildings at the end, all the structures in this view are gone.

In 2008; Looks beautiful at night, doesn’t it?

Close up of east side of the street in the 1966 view.

Last night.

View toward the 200 block from the alley between the (old) Wachovia building on the right and “Lenin’s Tomb” on the left.

The view today. The alley was closed during the mall period.



The lower floors of ” Raleigh’s Little Seagram Building” and the 1960s facade of Hudson Belk.

Same view today.

The east side of the 200 and 300 blocks in 1966 showing the (old) Wachovia building, “Lenin’s Tomb” and the block of 19th century storefronts where the RBC building is now going up.


If Capitol Square was the hub of Raleigh, then Fayetteville Street was its strongest spoke. For most of its existence and well into the 20th century this broad thoroughfare was the commercial and governmental axis of the city. Along its course were Raleigh’s principal businesses, hotels, banks, office buildings and government centers.

My fondest recollections of Raleigh’s “Main Street” span a period from the late 1950s through the mid 1960s. In those days I would often accompany Mom downtown when she went shopping, or I would catch a movie at the Ambassador Theater with my brothers. In the mid 60s I began exploring Fayetteville St on my own. During my downtown forays with my two Hugh Morson pals, I always carried my trusty Kodak Instamatic camera with me, of course.

I have always had an interest in architecture, and Fayetteville St was a veritable gold mine of architectural styles, at least it was to my young eyes. It seemed every style of American architecture was on display, from the dignified Greek Revival Capitol building at the head of the street to the flamboyant 19th century Italianate storefronts in the 200 block, to the massive stone Second Empire style post office building anchoring the corner at Martin St. Buildings in the Beaux Arts, Art Deco and 1940s Moderne styles were all represented. And of course at the foot of the street sat the  imposing, yet graceful Neoclassical Revival Memorial Auditorium. In the mid 60s Fayetteville St showcased various representations of mid 20th century modern architecture as well. These included the cast-stone-paneled Wachovia building in the 200 block, and the modernist polished black granite NCNB bank adjacent to it (which I called “Lenin’s Tomb.”). Down the street in the 300 block next to Hudson Belk is the International style BB&T Bank building, which I affectionately referred to as “Raleigh’s Little Seagram Building.”

I think I must have taken photos of every building along Fayetteville St. in those days. And good thing too, as many of them have since disappeared, including the terra cotta encrusted Tucker Building at the corner of Martin St across from the post office, and the grandiose columned 1915 Wake County Court House. Dozens of 19th century storefronts are gone, too. (Construction of the current Wachovia Building wiped out virtually the entire 100 block of Fayetteville St, with its office tower on one side and the parking deck on the other.)

But all that was a long time ago. After 30 comatose years as a pedestrian mall, Fayetteville Street has been opened up and its signature vista to Memorial Auditorium restored. Now the street is lined again with new landmark buildings, and is regaining its place as an architectural showcase. Raleigh’s Main Street is becoming once again our City’s strongest spoke.

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There are 11 Comments to this article

Pineview Style says:
07/15/2008

Wow! That’s pretty cool. I happened to notice the street lights in the older pics. I didn’t know that made that style back in the 60′s. They must have recently been installed. Interstingly enough, the ones that are used now look more retro.

Ben says:
07/17/2008

Awesome stuff.

Bootes says:
09/06/2008

Great photos! I only barely remember the 1960s, but the “look” is a wonderful reminder of my childhood, and certainly jibes with my downtown memories of the early ’70s.

Where did the “Lenin’s Tomb” nickname come from? That building doesn’t seem to me to resemble the actual tomb?

Raleigh Boy says:
09/08/2008

Thanks for the comment Bootes. I used to nickname everything back then (still do to some extent!) You gotta remember this was the ’60s and I was a teenager living during the cold war era. Lenin’s Tomb (the original in Moscow, that is) was a strong image in this Raleigh Boy’s young mind. Surely you’ve seen the photos of all the Communist party bosses lined up along the roof saluting nuclear missles during the annual Red Square May Day parade! So when the NCNB building was built in 1964 I remember thinking: big, monolithic, polished black granite>> It looks just like Lenin’s Tomb! And that name has stuck with me ever since!

Leon Rue says:
05/29/2009

My memories are from the late 30′s and early 40′s . There were two old muzzle loading cannons at the entrance to the Capitol. After going to the Ambassidor I would cut through the bookstore to a bakery on the next street to buy a cream filled pastry. I think these were called Napoleons.

jim says:
09/20/2009

where exactly was the ambassador theater and what is in its place now?

Raleigh Boy says:
09/20/2009

Jim — The Ambassador Theater stood in the 100 block, east side, of Fayetteville St. You can just make it out in the 3rd and 4th ‘then and now’ photo sets above. It was demolished in the mid 1990s, along with all the buildings in that block down to the Enterprise Properties Building, and replaced with the Wachovia Building parking deck. A stone monument dedicated to President Andrew Johnson, a Raleigh native, used to stand on the sidewalk in front of the Ambassador.

http://goodnightraleigh.com/2009/01/another-memorial-marker-returns-sort-of/

Leon Rue says:
10/18/2009

I remember a bronze clock with multiple faces outside the Wachovia bank. Is the smokestack of one of the ironclads still at the Hall Of History? The Merrimac maybe?
Leon

Raleigh Boy says:
10/18/2009

yes, Leon — I remember the bronze clock too, but only vaguely. It hung in front of the Security National Bank, located across Fayetteville from the Sulivanesque styled Wachovia Bank. By 1962 NCNB occupied the Security Bldg. NCNB demolished the Security bldg in 1963 and built ‘Lenin’s Tomb’ on the site in 1964.

The smokestack you are thinking of was that of the CSA ram iron clad ‘Albemarle.’ Built in 1863 near Scotland Neck on the Roanoke River, it sank during combat the next year. The smokestack was salvaged, and for decades it was on display at the ‘Hall of History’ in Raleigh. It is now at the Museum of the Albemarle in Elizabeth City, North Carolina.

Catherine in Tucson says:
12/18/2009

I’m an architectural historian in Tucson (moving to Burlington next year). In the past 5 years that I’ve lived here I’ve seen several of our neat older buildings come down, even though there’s a growing preservation movement here. I have made friends with a couple of the demolion co’s in town that let me know when a building is coming down so that I can photograph it and make up a history. There used to be a requirement in the building code that if a building was over 50 years old, historically significant or not, a survey had to be done. It was taken out and not put back in another part of the code, as they promised. We’ve lost several buildings in the past year that have been missed getting recorded. Thanks for the great before/after photos. Beautiful shots.

Raleigh Girl says:
12/26/2009

Raleigh Boy….thanks for yet another trip down Memory Lane. Seeing the photo of the old Belk’s store reminds me of the spectacular (by Raleigh standards) window displays they always had during the Christmas season—reason enough to make a special trip downtown at night just to see them.

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